"Is there any proper full register description?"
Here:
http://arduinouser.hu/esp32/ESP32_RMT_R ... ummary.pdf

"How do I do this with ESP32?"

const uint8_t ledPin = 2 ;
pinMode(ledPin,OUTPUT) ;
digitalWrite(ledPin,1); // (*((volatile uint32_t *) (0x3ff44000 + 0x8 ))) ^= 1 << 2 ;
digitalWrite(ledPin,0); // (*((volatile uint32_t *) (0x3ff44000 + 0xC))) ^= 1 << 2 ;

ESP_igrr wrote:ESPpeter: Make sure you enable RMT peripheral clock before writing to the control registers. I.e. call periph_module_enable(PERIPH_RMT_MODULE);

Thanks!
You win!
*((volatile uint32_t *) (0x3FF000C0)) |= 0x200 ;
*((volatile uint32_t *) (0x3FF000C4)) &= (~(0x200)) ;
after them work!

Hi!
How can write DIRECTLY the registers?
*((volatile uint32_t *) (0x3ff560F0)) = 3 do nothing.
Why?
But the read work:
... = *((volatile uint32_t *) (0x3ff560F0))
Thanks